Fall

A visual catch up.

 First, our bike trip to Lake Shikotsuko.


 We caught the sunrise from our campsite.

 We went foraging with our friends.
 

Fall has been great, but we miss all you friends and family.  Hope to see you all soon!

The projects: Part 1

One of the most wonderful (and obvious) things about growing a big garden is gathering a big harvest. But sometimes, all of that harvest is ready at once. That`s what happened with our radishes.  Until now we had rarely eaten them in any form other than salad however, so we had to dig a little to use up the bounty that you see above.

Luckily, one of our recent projects is trying to create a website.  And when I say we, I mean Brian is learning a lot and working hard to create an amazing site and I am playing with a camera, working on my food photography game.  It turns out that it`s really easy to take lovely pictures of the fantastic vistas/architecture/art/street-scapes that you come across while travelling.  It takes a bit more wrangling when it comes to pictures of food or other small-ish, indoor projects.  It`s tough to make fluorescent lighting look good, but project time for me tends to be at night so my most major breakthrough was taking pictures by day with natural light.

This is the convergence of radish bounty, website creation, and photography game-upping that created the perfect storm such that we made yummy eats AND there are pictures to show and tell!

First, Brian made this simple and delicious radish and cream soup.





Our next project attempted to use all those radish greens and the preserved lemons we had in the fridge. I made those on a whim and am ever after looking for an opening to use them.  So we made radish top pesto!

And our final pictured project (we also made pickles, but forgot to picture them) we made a sweet and spicy radish chow-chow.  Brian, being a true southerner from a long line of southerners grew up on his grandmothers` chow-chows.  I had never actually tried the stuff.  But I can now tell those of you who, eyebrows raised, are wondering what chow-chow  is that it is delicious and you should get some soon.  It`s like a sweet and spicy relish, often made with fruit - pear is a favorite.  But it`s pretty amazing with radish.  We canned a few jars of this and kept one for immediate eating.  Now, I initially wanted to cut that pile-o-sugar in half, but Brian dissuaded me and he`s right.  Chow-chow is meant to be sweet and spicy.  When in doubt, add more wasabi.  

Next time I`ll show you our garlic braid!  I am VERY excited about the garlic braid!  Til then, you can find the recipes that we used at food52.com.  Here are the links!

Radish Soup

http://www.food52.com/recipes/6634_rustic_radish_soup
Radish Top Pesto
http://www.food52.com/recipes/17651_spring_pesto_with_roasted_radish_mint_and_preserved_lemon
Radish Chow Chow
http://www.food.com/recipe/rosy-radish-relish-241334
Pickled Radishes
http://www.motherearthnews.com/small-farm-chronicles/quick-pickled-radishes.aspx

The green

First off, I`m sorry Kathy!  I`ve been promising to put up photos of the garden for ages and am only now doing so.  But with this picture overload, I am making up for it.  Now that it`s summer vacation I have a bit of time to show you folks back home what we`ve been up to in the back yard.

I had this great idea sometime in the dead of winter to photograph our back yard everyday to show how the garden grows. And how snowy it is. But daily photographs proved too grueling for me (I`m getting soft on the Japan gravy train). Later on, so did weekly photographs (very very soft). Then I kind of forgot all about it until last weekend when all of a sudden I realized our garden really had grown. The results are patchy, not the blooming time lapse I had envisioned, but you get the idea. And when I did remember this idea, I made up for lost time and due to macro, lost myself for an hour in the garden. It had just stopped raining but it was bright out so everything was glowing and sparkling with rainwater. At first glance it was a wash of green, but when I got close there were colors everywhere. And I am a sucker for colors.


And then, having written all of the above, I hadn`t publish the post yet and so the present state of the garden is lusher still.  Behold!


From the first to last photos we`ve more than doubled the garden space, and Brian has plans to hoe up more ground yet.  Our neighbors are encouraging it and they didn`t have to tell us twice.  Brian is especially eager to experiment more with staple crops, and I can`t wait to plant out more strawberries, raspberries, and to improve on last years garlic.

Soon I`ll show you some of the projects we`ve been getting up to with our harvests.  8 hours a day at a desk without much work to do is proving to be great motivation to get posts up here.

Hokkaido by bike!

We recently got ourselves some touring bikes (with a lot of help from Kathy and David, thanks guys!) from `Merica!  And ever since we have been wonderfully mobile.  It was like getting a car.  All of a sudden we could get to our schools faster than by public transportation.  And better yet, we can now get to places that public transportation does not (or does not often enough) service.  Here are the trusty steeds, loaded for a three day trip.

Hokkaido is kind of the perfect place for bike touring (although, admittedly it is the only place that I have done such a thing).  It`s got beautiful routes, speed limits are low and drivers relatively aware, camp sites everywhere, and where there aren`t campsites, you can guerilla camp pretty well anywhere without being bothered about it, AND in any town you can find a bath house for cleaning up.  Add to that the fact that Hokkaido is the breadbasket of Japan and every area has their local specialties that they grow or gather and it`s pretty hard to beat.  

Our very first bike trip we rode out to a massive park not too far from Sapporo to meet up with our friends Saga, Shinobu, Jun, Satoko, Nat, Kelly, Nathan, Sara and their son Ethan.  We stayed at a cabin there and ate yakiniku (Japanese bbq) from Shinobu`s father`s yakiniku shop.  The ride was beautiful, the park was beautiful, the food was delicious, and we finally got to play park golf!  Park golf is a lot like put put, but with real grass and no blue water or airbrushed t-shirts.  Plus, a lot of old folks are VERY serious about their park golf game.  

 Our second bike trip was our first fully packed with the tent and stoves and all.  We took an overnight trip to Asa beach with Nat and Kelly and camped right on the sand.  That ride was beautiful as well, along the river and then through farm land.  It was our first trip to the beach of the year, and we got to bike there!

And our most recent bicycle adventures took us to Cape Shakotan over a three day weekend.  Shakotan is the name of a peninsula in Hokkaido with surrounding waters so beautiful that there`s a shade of blue in Japanese named after it.  It was our most challenging ride yet, with longer distances and more climbing, but by far the most rewarding.  Wouldn`t you think this picture was from somewhere tropical?




It`s just now warm enough that most hiking trails are clear of snow now, so soon we hope to do a bike and hike.  Til then we`ll be riding to school and enjoying the garden (pictures of which are coming soon family!  Maybe as soon as tomorrow!).

Good news!

The end of winter in Hokkaido always brings mixed emotions. I love winter here. I love the beautiful snow and all of the awesome things you can do in it. But I also love late spring and summer here. The cherry blossoms, getting back in the garden, being able to bike around the city, and backpacking in the mountains. Early spring is a bit of a slush pit though, and I`m always a little sad to see the snowboarding season end. But yesterday, as we were hiking in the back country with our Tipi club friends, we got some good news! While the ski slopes tend to close in early April, the back country season doesn`t end until sometime in MAY! It`s the best of all worlds! We can bike to work, plant things in the dirt, and then go snowboarding on the weekend!

But in the meantime we`re taking full advantage of the last days of winter - snowboarding on the slopes and back country, and enjoying the last of the white city before it all turns grey/brown/black and the dog poop-cicles start melting out of the snow heaps.

Two weekends ago, our friend Kelly`s parents came to town and we all headed to Rusutsu for the weekend. It`s rare to get good views from the top there because it`s usually snowing. But we had two gloriously blue, sunny days with the best views we`ve ever seen from the top. Below top left is Lake Toya, top right is Mt. Yotei with Niseko mountain in the background. The next two rows show images from off-piste.

This past weekend we had another back country adventure. This time we went to Mayoizawa mountain, and it was a lovely day, but the snow reminded me of North Carolina (in a bad way). We`ve entered the near-spring weather of warmer temperatures and sunny days which leads to a 2 or 3 week window of really hard snow. After this period, the snow becomes kind of granulated, and there`s still a really deep base so it becomes fun to ride again. They call it zarume yuki in Japanese, which translates to granulated sugar. Now it`s more like 1 year old brown sugar yuki. You know that sugar. The old brick in your cabinet you have to drop from 6 feet up to be able to cook with. But it`s always fun to spend time with the Tipi club. And even when the snow is bad it`s amazing to be in the back country. We even saw some wildlife - a tiny wood pecker and a squirrel (I realize squirrels aren`t that exciting back home because they`re everywhere, but you rarely see them here and they`ve got little tufts of fuzz on their ears that make them look like squirrel-bunnies which is kind of painfully cute).

Top left you can see the city of Sapporo from the mountain. Bottom left - Takahashi San and Brian excited for the ride. To the right here - Shinohara San and Nauki San on the way up.

Takahashi San is usually busy taking photos and videos of everyone on these treks. He recently sent us links to his albums. You can check them out by following the links, but I nabbed a few to show you. The following photo credits all go to Takahashi San.

Hashida San, Brian and I on the way up Shiomaruyama on our first back country trip. Rare photographic evidence of my presence on these trips.

From the bottom up, this is Mrs. Hashida, Brian, me, Yamachan? (maybe), and Shinohara San climbing up Kiroro in a heavy snow. This was our second back country trip, the day we had insanely deep powder.










On the same trip. She actually hasn`t fallen down. She is in fact skiing. The snow is just. that. deep. This is the day we learned to snowboard with poles.

On our third trip at Neopara. Killing it. Just kidding, but I am partial to this picture. Thanks Takahashi San!

You can see more of his shots at these links.
Shiomaru Yama
Kiroro
Neopara

The Past - recent and distant

I`m not very digitally diligent, and I often forget to tell you about various comings and goings.  But these are three things that deserve note.

First and foremost, WE WON A CRAB!!!!!!!  Yes, a crab, that you eat.  And we did.  Win it and eat it.  Hokkaido is well known for it`s delicious shellfishes, they all seem to be sweeter from those icy cold waters.  And long long ago (last fall) we took a trip out to Ikeda Chou with our friends Nat, Kelly, Manabu and Sanae.  We stayed in a guest house there with an unbelievable crab feast - 4 kinds of crab (all from right off the Hokkaido coast) served 4 ways, including sashimi style.  At that guest house there was a drawing.  As far as I can remember Kelly won some cantaloupes, Sanae won a box of little Japanese pumpkins, and I won some soft serve ice cream.  Everything was from Ikeda area, everything was beautiful and delicious.  We also filled out some kind of post card for another drawing in which the winner was to get a crab.  Now, I can believe in drawing slips out of a hat and winning a prize.  There are witnesses.  But I always kind of thought that any mail in drawing was a sham.  "One lucky winner will get...."  nothing right?  Nobody ever wins those things.  But then - we DID!  We won a crab!  Last Monday this box came in the mail.

And on Tuesday we feasted on this crab with Nat and Kelly.  A crab feast on a Tuesday night?  Surreal.  As you can see, this is no blue crab.  This is Tarabagani!  King crab.  And he was tasty.  I still kind of can`t believe our luck.  I highly recommend winning yourself a crab sometime. 

Also, long longer ago (last summer) we grew a big garden for the first time ever.  And we lined the edges of all the beds in marigolds and calendula.  Both are edible flowers, both sequester nematodes in their roots, and both have lovely yellow to orange flowers.  But calendula also has healing properties that you can read about with a quick google.  Basically, if you`ve got a minor skin abrasion, calendula`s your bird.  And one of the best ways to get that skin-healing-goodness on to your minorly abraded skin is to make a balm or salve with it.  That`s just what I did and I wrote up my recipe for the Ajet Connect expat magazine and you can take a peek at it  here.  My article is on page 66.

When I wrote the article, I hadn`t actually made the balm yet because my petals were still infusing.  So I had to skimp on the images and even pilfer a finished balm photo from the annals of the internet (the other photos on the link though are mine).  But now, I can give you these, right from our kitchen. 

 The left two images are of the dried flower petals.  Top right is chunk organic beeswax.  On the bottom right is the calendula infused olive oil after 3 weeks of infusion.  Directly above are all of the ingredients I used.  And directly below is the finished product.  

Brian is currently learning web page design, and when he`s done we`ll post a full blown tutorial with these and more photos, but for now if you`re itching to get started, check out the recipe in the Ajet connect link above.  PS - I ended up putting more like 20 drops of cedar oil and 10 drops of orange oil in the mix to be able to smell them over the beeswax.

And in the much more recent past - yesterday we went back country snowboarding again, this time at Naopori, which is located on the back side of Teine mountain.  It was probably the hardest climb we`ve done so far, and the most fun descent.  We started out with beautiful, glowing blue skies and ended with a cold beer in a hot bath tub.  

You can see the rest of the photos from the trip here.

Back country, Round II

There`s a big beautiful snow coming down right now, so it seems appropriate that this post is heavy on the white stuff.  We`ve been busy getting the most out of this winter every weekend, and this will read a bit like a how-to guide on loving Hokkaido in winter.

Step 1 - Go cross country skiing!  Somehow we managed not to do this last year, but the park just across the river from us (Nakajima Koen) offers free cross country rentals and they have a lovely course that goes along the lake and through the woods to follow.  And it`s free!  And they`re not the only park in Sapporo that offers such fun.  It was a beautiful, snowy Saturday when we went.  

Step 2 - Go back country snowboarding or telemark skiing!  This has become my favorite way to love winter in Hokkaido, but don`t attempt step 2 without doing your homework.  It`s not terribly risky, but there is a chance of avalanche and if you don`t know what you`re doing (not that we do, we`re learning, but we`re also going with experienced friends) you could run into some cold deadly trouble.  The following pictures are some of my favorite reasons for back country over ski slopes.

These and the slideshow are all from our trip to the mountains around Kiroro with the Tipi club.  It was a seriously deep powder day and it snowed the whole time we were climbing and coming down.  

Step 3 - Go see the Sapporo Snow Festival. Especially on an unseasonably warm weeknight, as it can get crowded and cold. We went on a Monday night, the first night it officially started, but the week`s warm weather had already left some of the smaller sculptures a little bit battered.  The gigantic ones were still standing strong though.

I do love the festivity of the snow festival, but it`s also nice once it`s over.  It`s much easier to get around downtown when the extra 2 million (not exaggerating) visitors are not on the subways.  Plus, the ski slope population thins out noticeably afterwards as well.  Maybe hitting the slopes should be one of these steps, but I don`t have any readily available pictures from Rusutsu or anywhere else to entice you with.

Of course, there are lots more ways to enjoy winter in Hokkaido.  These are just the ones that I happened to bring a camera along for.  Hopefully we`ll get a lot more back country in before spring rears it`s melty, slushy, brown-snowed head (Hokkaido is supremely amazing every month except April).  Luckily, we`ve still got 2.5 months of snowy slopes (if not a snowy city) to enjoy!

Into the Woods at Last

Those of you we keep in regular touch with are well aware that come winter in Hokkaido, you can find us on the slopes.  Ever since we first arrived here we`ve been obsessed with powder.  And not long after we got here we`ve been all starry-eyed over the idea of getting away from the ski slopes and into the woods to get our fix.  But only recently did we aquire the rather necessary safety gear to make such a trip happen. 

This year for Christmas, Brian and I got each other avalanche beacons, shovels and probes (thanks Dad and Margo!), and some snow baskets for our trekking poles.  Romantic?  No.  Exciting?  Hell yes.  Now we`re equipped with the goods, if not the knowledge, for safe back country excursions.  Luckily, our friends with whom we made this trip are extremely well versed in avalanche safety and they`ve promised us our next trip will be preceded by a lecture on the topic.  But Shioyamaru Yama is blessedly tree covered and therefore we just got to have fun this time around. 

Sunday morning we got a lift from Takahashi San, a friend and telemark skier.  We rode with him to the little parking area at the base of the mountain where we met the rest of our posse.  Most of the gang where telemarkers, but Nauto snowshoed and boarded with us.  Before this trip I would have thought that skiing up would be easier than snowshoe-ing, but when the going gets steep the shoes are definitely easier.  We climbed for about 2 hours before reaching the top.  There was no fresh snow, so going up was easier.  And the day was relatively clear so the views were amazing.  Our friends were a little disappointed in the snow conditions, but we were too excited to notice or care.  

We had lunch under this tree after having summit-ed and boarded down.  After lunch some of us climbed back up to the top to do it again.  Brian and I both had wondered if we`d like back country as much as a ski slope where you can go off piste (like Rusutsu for example) because you only really only get one ride in.  But the hike up was beautiful.  It really makes you appreciate the ride when you`ve worked so hard to get it.  And it`s certainly nicer to hear birdsong in the woods that J-pop on the gondola.  And those views!

You can click on any of these images to see them larger.

It was one of my favorite days in Hokkaido yet.  We got a call from Hashida San saying that the next trip just might be this coming Sunday.  Can`t wait!